12/4/08

Up high in the mountains

Ok, let's move on to the mountains over a colorful windy road

Interesting way to collect stones for house building

My favorite jeep in the Himalaya, it might be a bit slow but in reality the roads don't allow much more than that

Hey ho! That's the trekking crew surfing on the roof of a jeep on it's way to the trekking starting point

Khudi: that's the first part of the valley we will have to climb

First lunch - best lunch! I ate one of those strong black chillies from the tree in front of the "hotel rooms" and I got really angry on myself the next day on the toilets... The landlord was also a good trader, we exchanged some good brown stuff from Kathmandu against his freshly dried green stuff from his garden. Following that we had a very relaxed walking day ;-)

I love Nepal! Compared to India this is a heaven for ecologically aware people. They use solar power to bring water to boil, rooftop black water heater for warm afternoon showers and solar panels for electricity. And 30% of its electricity comes from hydropower.

I present Deepak (guide), Milon (porter), Korbi (lazy trekker ;-)) and... donkey (porter)

My first contact to people of Manang and unfortunately only one of the few not seeing a dollar bill on my forehead.

Buuuh... This is the last picture of me with those beloved glasses which I lost later on in the waterfall behind during a bath

Milon is a happy porter with "just" one big backpack of 15 kg. The proper professional porters carry about 50-70 kg up the hills!

Tashi Delek (Wel Come)!

Those are carved and painted Tibetan stones and while walking left of these mantra inscriptions, you get power for continuing your way up the hills.

That's how you could spell it in our alphabet. More often you see it like: "Om Mani Padme Hum". It doesn't have a direct translation, but each syllab has a significance and many meanings. You repeat this silently as a way of meditation. Om: sacred exclamation "like" Amen. Mani: jewel; which symbolizes the method of an altruistic mind to help to remove poverty, cyclic existence and solitary peace. Padme: lotus; symbolizes wisdom, realized through creating emptiness. Hum: final syllab which symbolizes indivisibility of method and wisdom to finally achieve purity. Saying this helps you to transform your impure body, speech, and mind into the pure exalted body, speech, and mind of a Buddha. What makes actually Buddhism so interesting in my eyes is that blessing and power does not come through praying and hoping that god will hear us, but it is believed to be innate and to be inside of our own true nature.

Ouah! Big plants of Marijuana around!

That's how your hands look like after clapping a lot of Marijuana flowers

And this is my first self made hash!!

That's a Mani, with cylinders where Om Mani Padme Hum is inscribed. By turning them you get power

Enjoy Nepal!

Tea break after a steep 400m climb

Annapurna III (about 7500m)?!!?

Typical Nepali kitchen with some dudes drying the goods found on the way ;-)

Also non Buddhist can turn the wheels and feel the power of this ritual

This bridge has been build in 2062 and is 3 years old...

I had nearly most of those symptoms while at 1800m... Strange thing because they didn't reappear anymore while going higher up.

This is a Mani with a huge wheel inside decorated with colorful Tibetan prayer flags bless the surrounding countryside

Fabulous view over Manang valley and the Gangapurna on the left

A little Stupa in Humde

I like how Nepali express them self, it's so full of joy, happiness and peace

This is one of the oldest Buddhist monasteries still in use and one of the cutest villages I've ever seen

Manang... we are at 3600m! In summer all the surrounding of the village turn green while the rice is growing

Turquoise Gangapurna glacier ice lake

Oh what an easy day! We left the backpacks in the hotel and did a little tour to acclimatize to the altitude (3500-4000m). Everybody looks very relaxed and enjoys the cool breeze ;-)

Gangapurna and its glacier and a Tibetan prayer flag in my back

I like this picture. Deepak in his universe

The small village in front is nearly only used for the sheep in summer... the houses roofs are just 1m high

The beautiful ice lake (3600m) and Gangapurna (7500m)

Not much happening in Manang, just some Yaks hanging around on the streets

Let's go up to the highest lake in the world!

It's like walking on the moon! After a very hard steep climb, the steps on the snow/ice were now easy and gave us a big smile

Korbi is hanging our Tibetan prayer flags as a souvenir! Every year they put them all down for a new season... Too many people

Tilicho lake (4900m) and double Dpak

Amazing how people can go diving in these extreme conditions!

Always happy and smiling!

A lot of avalanches around!

On a steep landslide area

Some snow!! but it melted away as soon as the sun came out...

Buddhist fill the air with incense to make the environment convenient for spiritual contemplation

Another really beautiful lake but with green and yellow waters (for the microbiologists ;-))

Be careful we've seen a lot of people being sent down

Feeling like in a fairy tale

We made it! More prayer flags up here...

The highest joint in my life ;-)))

Golfing the Himalayan avalanche melt downs

Oh Tibet! No this is lower Mustang, but a valley with mostly Tibetan as since many centuries Chinese continuously push this peaceful population over the Himalaya

A visit to Saddhus in a temple area. Those guys practice yoga and meditation to achieve liberation and renounce the three Hindu goals of life: enjoyment, practical objectives and duty. The only thing they won't give up is smoking pot out of chillum all day long...

Tibetan stone graffiti

AH!!! Finally meat again! The Tibetan don't kill, so we didn't have any meat for the last 10 days, but where hiking up to 5400m!!!

Those are cute dwarf donkeys carrying goods downhill

That's the way they still plow their rice fields. No cars or even jeeps can come up here, so they depend on the good old animal force for work

Just a little bit before we leave the Annapurna region. A very kind and beautiful women gave us this self made stuff. And just for 2 euros compared to about 50-100 euros at home... What a wonderful world!

This is not a easter tree with eggs hanging on the branches, that's a tomato tree with dark acid tomatoes

So much water in this country! They use it here to make millet or rice flour for bread and MoMo (Tibetan dumplings)

Nice bath and wash in a hot spring one night in Tatopani

Laundry after weeks of wearing the same dirty clothes

A little abstract how people here have problems to spell correctly words in our alphabet...

That's a cheap and easy fitness center

So many different colors of beans!

Nice and peaceful Nepali tags found all over along this part of the track

Panoramic view from Poon Hill (3200m) with Dhaulagiri (8167m) on the left and Fishtail (6993m) on the right and Annapurna I (8091m) on its left

We look very tired by now... This was one of the last climb along this long trek

Smile!

Beautiful Gurung village: Ghandruk

Amazing how steep they can build village with rice terraces around

Last picture is the best picture! All preparing their dirty hair for a picture before leaving on the bus to Pokhara

On roof of the bus

Cool final canoe tour on Fewa Tal at Pokhara and our last day with those fantastic two guys! See you again my friends!

Delhi to Kathmandu

The Moghul Red Fort in Old Delhi with Korbi in this new traveling episode!


Some more sightseeing in Delhi. That's Qutb Minar, a watch tower from the 12th century build by the first but not last muslim ruler in Delhi.

That's... Humayun's tomb, pretty impressive! I get even more curious now to see the Taj.

Hey, Hey!! On our way to one of the best muslim restaurant in Old Delhi with a whole leg of lamb waiting for us! It's Thejas on the Rickshaw behind who so kindly hosted us and brought us deep down into Delhi nightlife.

That's Pan the biggest mix of sweets and other stuff I've ever seen. Still, it's very tasty but difficult to eat, as you're supposed to chew all in one go to taste all the flavours at the same time...

Can you see the mountains far in the sky, higher than the clouds?!?! That's the Himalya, with Dhaulagiri (7th highest mountain in the world, 8167 m) on the left and the Annapurna range on its right (where we are going trekking around!!!)

Just arrived in Kathmandu and I run into Ruben and his spanish crew! Unfortunately, they are already leaving the next day for a camping trek in Langtang... I was later on happy not to have decided to jump on their tour as I got pretty sick.

This is a mysterious place where a chosen little girl is kept as a goddess and is only allowed once in a year to show herself to public at this window during a big religious festival

This is Durbar Square, where Hindu and Tibetan religious architecture meets Nepali culture

Thamel is wonderful for not normal sized (at least in Asia) people like me, you can tailor made jackets, sleeping mats and bags at a good price but medium quality...

A cow with an extraordinary fifth leg on the back which makes her a special holy cow. Poor beast is standing all day in this small carrier to get stared at by passers-by.

Little monkey at the... monkey temple!

The monkey temple which is actually THE place of cremations in Nepal. One man is taking care that the fire starts with burning the head and the rest of the body of a high cast corpse. At the back a low cast body is burning already...

This is a scary place, but which is thankfully no more in use. 150 years ago when a person got caught having two or more partners, they were put in this "temple" and their head was chopped off! Also another ritual was: when a man died her widow jumped alive on the fire and let herself burned together with her husband.

On the right there is a washing ceremony to prepare the body for the cremation. On the left an important (high caste) person is getting burned. All around are monkeys fighting, screaming
and jumping around.

Korbi and our guide observing the happening securely on the side of the fertility temples.

Those are temples dedicated to fertility, symbolizing sexual interaction of the god symbols Lingam (Shiva) and Yoni (Shakti). Couples come to follow a tasty sweet ritual when they wish to get kids

As a holy man, this is the way to follow for meditating years and years in the dark of those caves. After each reached step towards the nirvana they get into a higher cave and teach newcomers to find their way to achieve the state of being free from both suffering and the cycle of rebirth